I Got Stripes

"I got stripes, stripes around my shoulders."
                               -Johnny Cash

Dolce & Gabbana

Not much different than the prison-bound Cash once sang about, fashion enthusiasts will be donning wide stripes this season. Although the contrasting black and white reigned supreme at the spring/summer 2013 shows, designers used a variety of color combinations such as red/white, green/white, yellow/white, and blue/white. Whether vertical, horizontal, or curved stripes, there is no doubt that the eye-catching print flatters the body.

Marc Jacobs

Not only are stripes being seen on clothing, but accessories as well, including shoes, sunglasses, and handbags. The details that make the common graphic unique this time around are the width and placement of the stripes, making them sixties-inspired mod. The transformation of the often mediocre pattern is definitely a visual treat. Marc Jacobs, Dolce & Gabbana, Moschino, and Christian Dior are among the many fashion houses to embrace the made-over and beloved stripe.

After zero success searching local fabric shops and online stores, I finally found a wide-striped black and white fabric at an Ikea just outside of Denver. Although a heavier fabric meant for home decorating projects, I went ahead and bought a yard and a half to make a summer shorts romper similar in shape to the one I made last summer. After creating a new pattern out of muslin (six pieces for the torso, a waistband, and four pieces for the bottom), I cut, carefully lined up the stripes, and began sewing. The romper turned out exactly as I imagined and will be perfect for the upcoming warm summer months.

MADE IN KANSAS

The Great Gatsby Costume Collaboration

"I like large parties. They’re so intimate. At small parties there isn’t any privacy.”

                                 -F. Scott Fitzgerald

The Great Gatsby, one of the most highly anticipated movies of the year, will open next week after it's release date was pushed back five months. Movie enthusiasts and fashionistas alike wait patiently to watch director Baz Luhrmann's film come to life as it depicts F. Scott Fitzgerald's classic. Catherine Martin is not only the director's wife, but also the mastermind behind the motion picture's well thought out costumes that take the audience back in time. A vital part to the film's success is based on designer Martin's ability to capture the lively and free-spirited era of the Roaring Twenties among Long Island's elite through fashion. 

When Luhrmann discussed his vision with his wife he said, "I don’t want a nostalgic New York, I don’t want a sepia-toned New York, I want a New York that feels as vibrant and sexy and visceral and modern as it would have to Zelda and Fitzgerald, or any of the characters in the book." So Martin began her research by reading the book and assessing what the characters were wearing. She then travelled to the Met library and FIT and followed up with online research.

Miuccia Prada, a friend of Luhrmann, teamed up with Martin to help with costumes for the party scenes. The famed designer already had experience working with Luhrmann and Martin when she created a dinner suit for Leonardo DiCaprio to wear in Romeo and Juliet. She ended up designing 40 costumes based on past Prada and Miu Miu dresses that she adapted for The Great Gatsby. "I usually try not to literally reference periods in my work, because that's not the way I think," Prada said. "But when I worked on the costumes, I realized how many pieces could become very 1920s with a little intervention and another point of view." 20 of the dresses were for the "glamorous party" and 20 for the "sad and tawdry party". Prada also designed Daisy Buchanan's dress and fur (worn by Carey Mulligan) for her first Gatsby party in the film. Martin made a clever decision when partnering with Prada to convey the nostalgic fashion of the Jazz Age to a modern audience. 

As for F. Scott Fitzgerald's personal fashion sense, his primary clothing source was Brooks Brothers, a men's outfitter that has been fashioning menswear since the 1800s. "Brooks Brothers is mentioned numerous times in Fitzgerald's writings as a representation of the ultimate gentleman's purveyor of fine clothing," said Martin. So it was appropriate that the company was a large part in outfitting the men on set. Apparently, Brooks Brothers provided more than 500 looks for the stars, including Leonardo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire, and a large amount of extras. Martin was given access to the company's clothing archives for inspiration. The New York-based brand is now selling The Great Gatsby Collection, which includes twenties-themed leather wingtips, bow ties, linen vests, dapper suits, and genuine onyx and gold-plated cuff links. 

Tiffany & Co. also partnered with The Great Gatsby and provided headpieces, bracelets, rings, and long strands of pearls that were influenced by the flapper-filled decade. Jon King, executive vice president for Tiffany & Co., told WWD, “Tiffany was certainly part of this era. The brand was at the center of the parties of the rich and famous.” Following in Brooks Brothers' footsteps, the fine jeweler is also marketing a new collection based on the film. One of its most exquisite items for sale is the savoy headpiece, which is adorned with freshwater cultured pearls and round brilliant diamonds for the shocking price of $200,000.

Ralph Lauren, Gucci, and Marchesa all rolled out twenties-inspired designs in their spring/summer 2012 collections, possibly with Downton Abbey moving into the 1920s and The Great Gatsby in mind. Since the film postponed its release date to this month, will the resurgence of twenties fashion hold strong? Martin replied when asked why the decade is making such a comeback, "The 1920s was an influential era because you basically saw every single style of neckline, dress shape and dress length reinterpreted. It’s also an interesting era because it was both modern and nostalgic at the same time. On the one hand it was extremely modern—dresses were shorter, there was a freedom of movement, and sportiness—but at the same time there was nostalgia for the embellishment, beading, and lace of the 18th century."

I bought a beautiful black and white lace and combined it with a black satin-like fabric for my modern day flapper dress design. It is more fitted than an authentic 1920s frock, but does have the comfort and drop-waist that footloose and fancy free flappers longed for. I sewed the black down the sides and middle of the top portion for added contrast. It's perfect for a Gatsby-style affair.

MADE IN KANSAS

Smells Like Team Spirit

"My wife forces me to watch Project Runway. I wish I could leave the room. But I am so into it. I'm weighing in, like, 'Oh, wow, look at that hemline, right? Looks cheap.'"

                                                                                   -Steve Carell

I don't like group projects. Never have, never will. But the puppet masters of Project Runway decided it was time to shake up the solo project format that had carried the show through the past 10 seasons and venture into the rocky, argument-strewn territory of team challenges. Another change this season was the unwelcome departure of Michael Kors, the "other" man in black, who has described his attire as "all black on black on black." Kors's less-than-flattering criticisms (also known as Korsisms) such as "[Elena’s] coat looks like it was sewn with her feet," and "It looks like she's pooping fabric," have been missed. His replacement, Zac Posen, has a proven track record when it comes to fashion design, but lacks the sharp wit of his predecessor. We can all look forward to Michael Kors making an appearance as a guest judge on the season finale part 2 next week.

Despite the team challenges making it difficult to evaluate each designer's true talent, a few contestants and their designs have stood out. One of my favorite challenges was "The Art of Fashion", for which the designers had to create a piece of wearable art and a ready-to-wear companion piece while also incorporating their own textile design into their garments. Michelle (my pick for the overall season 11 winner) and Stanley's looks were inventive and impeccably made, which gave them the highest team score that week.  

Another challenge was "He Said, She Said" where the designers were given the task of making something for the masses to be sold at Lord and Taylor. Michelle won this challenge by creating a modern, chartreuse shift dress (priced at $259.00). Amazingly, it sold out online by 8:45 the morning after the episode aired. "It’s kind of crazy and surreal,” Michelle said. “I’m still in shock and this happened quite a bit ago. Just seeing my dress manufactured and them lined up in here, it’s pretty awesome.”

I just finished making a dress inspired by Michelle's winning look for the Lord and Taylor challenge. The fabrics she chose worked perfectly together, so I purchased an exquisite mazarine blue silk crepe de chine, silk organza, and faux suede for my adaptation of her design.

Part 1 of Project Runway's season finale airs tonight on Lifetime. Let's hope to goodness that Daniel can come up with something different than his oh-so-familiar jacket that we all adore, but have seen him concoct more times than we've seen a black t-shirt on Mr. Kors.

MADE IN KANSAS

Temperley London Looks to Hitchcock's Muse

“Fashion changes, but style endures.”

                               -Coco Chanel

As always, February marks the beginning of fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan, and Paris as designers unveil their fall looks. One of my all-time favorite collections was Temperley London. Each piece was designed to perfection and inspired by the style of Tippi Hedren, Alfred Hitchcock's muse and star of "The Birds." The collection was feminine, yet with a slight edge. Alice Temperley, who has admitted to being obsessed with the romance and glamour of old movies, said, "It's from a bygone era, but we all secretly want to look like that." Her high-waisted, full skirts, and tailored coats were cleverly styled with leather gloves, pointed-toe heels, and silk scarves. The show notes concluded by stating, “[Temperley's woman] today is an alpha female with a darker side but still luxuriously chic and ultra feminine, whose wish is to live life to the fullest.”

Another collection that caught my eye was Emilia Wickstead, shown at The Connaught Hotel. She's only been showing at London Fashion Week since 2011, but still managed to combine plaids, florals, and pleats with pristine tailoring. 

This week, I designed and sewed a dress unlike anything I've made before. I usually gather or pleat the bottom half of my dresses, but chose to do an a-line skirt this time. The red piping at the waist and arms brings out the red in the floral print. I lined the sheer, top fabric, combined it with a black twill for the bottom of the dress, and added an invisible zipper on the side.


MADE IN KANSAS 

Paris of the Plains: Fashion Woes

"Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman."

                                                                                       -Coco Chanel

                                                             

Kansas City has been referred to as the "Paris of the Plains" since the 1920s, when journalist Edward Morrow wrote, "If you want to see some sin, forget Paris and head to Kansas City." He was referring to its rebellious spirit and creative culture during the jazz age that resembled the glamourous City of Light. Kansas City is also chock full of boulevards and fountains like Paris and Rome, but unlike the two European cities, its metropolitan area is currently lacking when it comes to fashion sense. Declared the 10th worst dressed city by Travel and Leisure, some Kansas Citians exude more goat couture than haute couture. Baggy sweat pants tucked into your leather boots or Chiefs gear 17 sizes too large just isn't a good look for anyone. Rest assured, we're not alone. Dallas, Phoenix/Scottsdale, Orlando, Anchorage, and five others were declared to be more fashionably challenged than Kansas City.

Christopher Swetala from GQ magazine wrote, "How does a city that fathered its own style of jazz back in the 1930s dress with such little manly swagger? Yeah, you're a laidback town, part of that real America, and sure, eating sauce-covered burnt ends and pork ribs can be messy. But let's grow up." Swetala ended his article with some advice to Kansas City residents, "Hey, we get it: Going out for a pitcher and beef-on-bun doesn't require a jazzy suit, but no matter how you swing it, oversized and billowy ain't cool."

When the time comes to rank the worst dressed cities of 2013, let's cross our fingers in hopes that Travel and Leisure will factor in the hipsters of Lawrence and Crossroads Arts District dwellers when casting their votes. Where the city lacks in style, it does make up for with its unparalleled jazz scene, world famous barbecue, and, most importantly, friendly Midwesterners. Jack Stack anyone? (I'm suddenly craving some cheesy corn bake.)

It is very unusual for me to find an appealing textile at a local Kansas City store, but I did pick up a black and light pink polka dot fabric and pink chiffon to make this versatile dress. It took some time to get the fit just right, but turned out well. I had enough leftover fabric to also make a skirt. My only regret is that I didn't add pockets.

MADE IN KANSAS